Jamaica has a reputation for being one o the most homophobic countries in the world, so before embarking on our mini-vacation we did some research (as we always do) to find out exactly what we might be up against and to decide whether or not to be out as a lesbian couple while exploring this beautiful Caribbean Island.
I came across reports of incredible violence towards lesbians, involving brutal beatings and gang rapes. The most disturbing stated that a group of men cut a woman’s vagina before they raped her, claiming that she must have been a lesbian because her vagina wasn’t large enough to receive a man’s penis. Other reports state that citizen rights are often taken away from lesbians, denying them healthcare, among other things, and lesbians are discouraged from reporting attacks against them for fear of being outed in society. The pages accounting discrimination and violence against lesbians went on and on and it became clear that being out in Jamaica would be detrimental to our safety and so the decision practically made itself.
Jamaica’s First Pride
My continued research eventually led me to this piece of wonderful news: In early August 2015, only two weeks before our visit, Jamaica held their first Pride celebration that included five days of events, including an open mic night, art exhibition and a coming out symposium, between August 1 (Emancipation Day) and August 6 (Independence Day). I was so happy to read such positive accounts of the celebration and this statement in particular by Latoya Nugent, one of the Pride organizers, brought tears of joy to my eyes:
PRiDE JA 2015 commenced with a flash mob on the morning of Emancipation Day at the historic statue by Emancipation Park. It was perhaps the most exciting and inspiring activity for me because it required so much bravery and boldness of the participants. It was open. It was public. It was being filmed. And for the 15 or more minutes that we danced, ran, posed for photos and shouted “Happy PRiDE!” all the last minute fear and nervousness vanished. Like all our other PRiDE events it was also incident free, and the feedback from onlookers was purely positive. On our journey back to the Rainbow House following the flash mob, rainbow flags were flown through every window of all the vehicles that transported participants, organisers, supporters, and filmmakers. It was unbelievable and magical! I couldn’t believe that this was Jamaica.
Despite the Pride festivities going so smoothly and that this might be a sign of change for Jamaica, after considering the possibility of such extreme brutality towards us, we still decided not to be out while visiting the country, knowing that we could change our minds once we were there if it did seem safe after all.
Moving Back Into the Closet
The day of our travel to Jamaica we took off our wedding and engagement rings and lay them on the dresser before heading to the airport. We often remove our rings before travel for fear of them getting stolen so we were fully prepared for our fingers to feel naked for a few days. But what we hadn’t realized, is just how difficult it would be go move back into the closet. We had become so complacent and relaxed about calling each other “Babes” and referring to each other as “my wife”. I wouldn’t think twice about putting my arm around Mindy in public or giving her a kiss.
Visiting Jamaica as a lesbian couple meant all that had to change, but our undesired return to the closet was harder than we thought. We kept forgetting not to call each other by our endearing pet names for each other in public and always breathed a sigh of relief when no one “caught us”. Once I called her “Babes” and immediately got nervous, but then remembered we were in private so it was ok. We became constantly on guard.
We also had the foresight to never ask people we met about their familes for fear this question might come back to us. I felt particularly limited by this because normally I enjoy speaking with the locals and getting to know them. Once, I saw a man wearing a Blue Jays baseball cap and so I went to talk with him and it turns out that he was Canadian and lived in Guelph, a town outside of Toronto. My instinct was to tell him that my wife was from Toronto and that we had lived there for 5 years, but my new guarded self sensored me and I came out with, “the other person I am traveling with is from Toronto and she’ll be happy to hear that I met another Blue Jay fan”. This, I realized, made me feel like our relationship was downgraded to “just friends”.
On our second day in Jamaica Mindy wasn’t feeling well while we were out exploring the town. I managed to find a quiet place for her to sit inside and away from the heat but I felt so limited with how I could comfort her. I wanted to rub her back and put my arm around her and kiss her forehead and be loving. So, instead, I began telling her the caring ways I would treat her had we not been in Jamaica. I told her, “I’m rubbing your back”, “now I’m kissing your forehead” and “my arm is around you”. Mindy imagined each loving statement.
We also found that while exploring Jamaica’s beautiful beaches we couldn’t frolick and play around in the water the way we would at home. Even on the private beach we had access to, each time we moved towards each other, we found ourselves being starred at by the local men working construction nearby. It just wasn’t worth the risk. So we appreciated the beautiful water separately as we watched straight couples enjoying the freedom to which we had grown so accustomed.
All this change in behavior, however, could not have prepared us for what we were about to experience on our last evening in Jamaica.
Being Confronted with Homophobia
After eating yet another delicious ital meal at one of our favorite restaurants in Ocho Rios, we decided to check out some sort of open air event happening in town, right next to the market where we had bought fruit only the day before. We heard a mixture of lively music and an impassioned woman’s voice over a loudspeaker as we neared the crowd.
We stood in back of the exicted group and watched. Coming upon local events like this is one of the aspects I love the most about traveling! I leaned in and asked the woman in front of me what this event was and she explained that it was a church service and pointed to the church just to the left of the group. So when the music came on, I danced (terribly I’m sure) with the locals and clapped when others did – I wanted to enjoy myself and experience the moment.
The woman up in front was speaking a mixture of Jamaican English and Patwa (a local language) so it wasn’t always easy to ascertain what she was saying. But every once in awhile I could make out phrases about Jesus and can she get an “Amen” etc. Once I picked up a statement about Obama visiting Jamaica and she seemed disappointed by this visit but I couldn’t pick up why. I knew I would have to look this up later.*
Then I heard, “Some people think these two women should be married” and at that same moment the crowd was such that I could actually see the front and so saw the minister push two women together. “I think this is a lesbian wedding”, I said into Mindy’s ear and I got so excited thinking we had just happened to stumble upon something so extraordinary. Perhaps our fears about being out were unfounded?
After another short song, I heard the statement, “At the bank the other day, I saw a man that was behaving like a woman” and all I could make out after that were the words, “sin”, “unnatural” and “not how god made us”. Cheering ensued and people held their hands up high. It was beginning to be clear what the message was.
As travelers we are used to being stared at, especially in places like China and Thailand, but we, mostly Mindy, began to receive looks that did not seem to match the innocent but curious looks we’ve received elsewhere. The next thing I heard that I could make out was “batty man die” (“batty man” is Jamaican for “homosexual”). Although this comment was directed towards gay men, it was clear from the context of the entire sermon that lesbians were lumped into this statement and I felt hurt and was suddenly reminded of the statistic I had read that 84% of Jamaicans polled believe that lesbians are immoral (87% for gay men).
I turned to Mindy and saw a mixture of hurt and fear on her face as the frenzied crowd continued to cheer. It was time to go. As we quickly walked back to the car, I quietly told Mindy, “I’m putting my arm around you”.
Respect To Our Jamaican Lesbian Sisters
During the somber car ride back to our accommodation we talked about leaving the next day and how badly we felt for the many Jamaican lesbians who face discrimination, brutality and intolerance as a matter of course. Our respect for women like Angeline Jackson, Latoya Nugent and other organizers of the Pride events as well as all the participants grew with the realization that we had seen first hand a small example of the very in-your-face homophobia they were up against.
As soon as we passed security in the Montego Bay airport, I put my arm around Mindy and kissed her, no longer caring who saw us or what anyone thought. I had missed having a wife. I had missed her.
This was the first time that Mindy and I were arriving to the United States as a married couple since the Supreme Court ruled that same-sex marriage was constitutional and it somehow seemed appropriate that we should be arriving from Jamaica as it highlighted the “where we’ve been” and “how far we’ve come”. We filled out only one customs form and walked up to the immigration booth together. The conversation was as follows:
Officer: How are you two related?
Both of us answered together: We’re married.
Officer: How long?
Mindy: Nine years in September.
Officer: Oh, so you got married even before it was legal?
Me: Yes. She’s Canadian so we got married in Canada.
Officer: Oh, it’s legal there?
Me: Yes, since 2005.
Officer: Well, it’s about time we caught up.
Mindy: And now, we can live in Ligeia’s country.
Officer: It’s your country now too.
He handed us back our passports, having asked us no questions about our travel. We felt safe, welcomed and supported for who we are, even by a government official, and I realized just how important the recent US Supreme Court’s decision was. I truly did not think this would happen in my lifetime and yet, there it was, proving to me that change is possible and can happen even more quickly than I thought. Thanks to the hard work of strong Jamaican lesbian leaders, I have faith that one day we will be able to visit Jamaica as a married couple.
*Obama visited Jamaica in April 2015 and in a speech he commended Angeline Jackson and the work she’s been doing to highlight the plight of the LGBT communities in Jamaica.
16 thoughts on “Visiting Jamaica as a Lesbian Couple”
Thank you for providing a touching ending to a heavy story.
Elena and I are headed to the carribean for a few months after our wedding. Jammica isn’t it on the itinerary and probably won’t get added.
Bounding Over Our Steps
Congrats on your upcoming wedding. 🙂 If you get a chance to go to Jamaica, we recommend it. Although we found it difficult to be lesbians there, we also found some very lovely aspects to the country, it’s people and it’s various cultures. We found Portland to be the most beautiful parish.
Travelling as a lesbian to Jamaica with long hair and thereby passing as straight made my travels so much easier, it’s sad that it is this way. Great post.
Bounding Over Our Steps
Yes, Mindy felt more uncomfortable than I did there and I think much of it has to do with our appearances, whereas I can “pass” as a straight woman, this was not neccessarily the case with Mindy, who has very short hair and a more butch appearance (very sexy I might add 😉
But even a couple with two feminine looking women might also feel limited in the way they could interact with each other in public. I really do feel hopeful aobut the change happening in Jamaica. 🙂
This one made me cry. Sending a hug to both of you.
Bounding Over Our Steps
Thank you for the hug Jeanne! 🙂 We hope that one day lesbians in Jamaica will feel as supported as we do.
I am a Lesbian from jamaica I move to the nederlands for the same reason although I was an activist for the gay community of jamaica I feel treathen so I had to so I know what you ladie went through. My partner is a butch and I have to be always looking out for her cause I don’t look gay but we are at a place where we respected .
Bounding Over Our Steps
I am so happy to hear that you are somewhere safe and where you can be yourself without fear. I hope that one day you can go back to Jamaica (either to move or to visit) and feel that same sense of security that you feel in the Netherlands. 🙂
Big up Sistahs! I am with you.
Thank you, we were just about to book and a friend said it was not safe .. but I could not find anything reasonably up to date its now Aug 2016. We were wondering whether to stay really discreet and go for it .. But your right she is my wife and after 20 odd years I cant go back !! Decided to look else where, im not spending my hard cash and my holidays were Im not welcome.
Krystel @ PlanningThe Magic
This is information that every lesbian couple should have. I literally had no idea and was planning to visit Jamaica or the Bahamas Jan 2017. Your writing is amazing so I was immersed in the post the entire time. This was tough to read. I almost feel like I need to go sit out in the sunlight to recover. As a lesbian you never think you’re that much different, or that your relationship is not the same as everyone else’s. To think that I might have forgotten to do research and be somewhere that doesn’t accept me, and get hurt for it….mind blowing. I don’t have kids yet but I when I do, I will have to be very careful and have so much more to consider when traveling.
Thank you so much for this article. That was a tough one to read, i felt so much sorrow for you two. I recently learned about Jamaica’s towards us, but reading this really made me FEEL like i was there, and i was so sad! Thank you for your honest blog.
Thank you for this article,I am def butch and my G/F is ultra fem ,issue is she lives in Montego bay and is desperate for me to join her, , I have one big problem and no idea how to fix this
I was planning a vacation with my lesbian daughter who has a more butch appearance. I am so happy I found your blog. While reading I felt so sad for you and immediately afraid for my daughter. We will not be traveling to and spending our money in place where my child has to hide who she is. Thank you for sharing your story.
I have been taking the family to Jamaica for years but now that my daughter is out we won’t be going back. You are a very good writer and I loved this piece for many reasons.
Bounding Over Our Steps
Let’s hope that Jamaicans (and others) change the way they views lesbians. It’s such a beautiful country and it’s a shame that it’s not safe for everyone. 🙁